The Cinque Terre

Today I had a good game-plan for the day. I heard about this place from a friend and looked it up in a guidebook. It sounded like something I would totally dig so I thought I'd take a day and check it out. I was headed to the Cinque Terre meaning "Five Lands" in Italian. There are basically five fishing villages on the Italian Riviera that are relatively close to one another. They are all linked by a trail that goes from village to the next. There are no cars allowed in the Cingue Terre except for service vehicles so you have to take the train or walk. So, I took the train to the Northern most village which is called, "Monterosso". My plan was to hike South all the way to the last village and stop in each town along the way.
I arrived in Monterrosso relatively early just as they were opening their market for the day. I walked the side streets of the town which are all narrow and quaint. I found my way to the center of town where I had to walk along the shore to get to. The view of the ocean was beautiful! The water didn't have a single ripple and it stayed that way the entire day. It was like glass as far as my little eyes could see. There would be an occasional fishing boat that would pass though, but that was about it. The other thing about the ocean is that it is very clean and clear. Truly fantastic! Walking around Monterosso was a joy!

Monterosso

I headed to the next town, "Vernazza". I found the trail leading up the hill and began my hike along the coastline. The hike was wondrous with spectacular views of Monterrosso, streams feeding into the ocean, small waterfalls, vineyards along the hillsides, and barely a sole in sight. There were times that the path got very narrow and you had to almost side step so as not to fall down the hillside, but it was nothing scary. I came to a part in the path were there were some working on part of the trail. The supervisor stopped me and tried to talk with me in Italian, but when he realized that I didn't speak Italian he just waved me through and said, "Attention...attention" as I walk though their work. I walked a bit further and ran into a very nice older couple who had stayed the night in Vernazza. When they saw me they said, "You are the first person that we have seen on the trail in 2-days!" They informed me that the entire Cinque Terre trail was closed due to landslides. While it was closed the mindset of many people was, "hike at your own risk". They said that part of the trail between a couple of the towns was completely fenced off so you couldn't access it. I said, "that's ok, I'll take the ferry" to which they replied, "we were going to do that too, but the ferry isn't open today". I said, "Okay, I'll take the train". You know, that's all part of traveling in the off-season. You can't do everything you could otherwise do in the summer, but in return you got the enjoyment of many places without all the long lines, masses of people, and cheaper prices on everything. Anyway, I continued on the trail and not long after I ran into another couple. We talked for a bit about the trail and they said that they just passed a rough part. As I leave the woman kept saying, "I'm going to stay and watch you pass the rough part so if you hurt yourself we can call for help....we are going to watch you". She must have been a mother. As I reach the other side safely the guy calls out to me, "Beware of the cats up ahead!" I says, "Cats?" to which we replies, "You'll see". They way he said, "You'll see" sounded exactly like they way Keanu Reeves says, "You'll see" in the movie "Bill and Ted's Excellent Adventure" when he meets his future self and is being told about the princesses. Anyway, if you have seen the movie you know what I'm I'm talking about. It was said in the humorous and exciting way. So, I continue along the path and I'm enjoying just being in the Cinque Terre. I come around a bend and in the shade I see a picnic bench. On the picnic bench are two cats just enjoying the shade. I walk closer as the sound of Bill S. Peston's voice reverberates in my had, "Beware of the Cats.....you'll see". I move closer cautiously. The kitties were far from ferocious. In fact, they were homeless and hungry. Now, the Cinque Terre trails are on National Park land. The service must of have set this up. Near the benches were several containers of empty food bowls with one large container that had a sign on it. The sign indicated that they were homeless cats and asked people as they were passing though to feed them. So, I opened the large container and pulled out some kibble for them to eat. Looking around some more I saw that the park service had prepared a little place for them to sleep. Bolted on the picnic bench was a coin box to donate to help feed the cats. I popped in 2 Euro and went on my way.

The Trail

Beware of the Cats!

I turned around a bend and I had reached Vernazza! The town was gorgeous! Again, as with all the towns, I wondered the side streets. This one had more tourists in than the others, but it wasn't over loaded with people. It was perfect! It had a castle, a nice little cove for boats, and plenty of streets to wonder. I stopped into a little cafe and had my morning capochino. I sat by the cove and enjoyed the view of the water and the village as I ate my grapes.

Vernazza

Pathway in Vernazza

Vernazza with Monterosso in the Distance

Once I was well rested it was off to the village of "Corniglia". The hike to Corniglia was not too bad, but like the other, the views were mesmerizing! This particular hike was full of wildflowers that reached into the trail. So beautiful! As I was hiking along the trail I come across another picnic bench and out of the bushes come these two ferocious kitties! No, they were cute and nice. These ones seemed a little more persistent for food. I looked around and there was no container of food for them. I saw many empty bowls and one very dirty bowl of water. I reached in my bag and feed them half of my prosciutto sandwich which they gobbled up. I said, "I know, right? It's good stuff!" I cleaned out their water bowl and filled it with one of the three bottles of water I had in my bag before continuing further.

Hike to Corniglia

Beware of the Cats!

When I reached Corniglia, which is mostly on a hill, I found my way to the center of town and wondered the streets. I found a perfect spot to have lunch where I could see four of the five towns in the Cinque Terre. As I'm standing their eating my lunch a fluffy white cat comes up to me wanting food. I throw it a few pieces and from then on it was my friend. It didn't want to leave my side. I walked the town some more and needed something sweet. I popped into a local shop for my cafe gelato. To get to the train station I had to walk down this long switch-back brick stairway feeling sorry for anyone who had to climb up it.

View of Corniglia

I hopped on the train to the next town, "Monarola". The town of Monarola was pretty nice with plenty of places to have a nice view of the town and the other villages. It had some pretty sweet outdoor cafes and wine bar so you could just sit and enjoy the views.

Monarola

After Monarola had had to take the train to Riomaggiore since the path was blocked off. Riomaggiore is the smallest of the five towns. It was beautiful town to spend my remaining time in the Cinque Terre.

Riomaggiore

What is cool is that each town, while similar, has their own unique charm to them. I wish the other two trails were open, but I totally enjoyed my Cinque Terre experience. The towns remind me a lot of the feel you get from Carmel and Santa Cruz....just with less tourists. I'm sure in the summer these places fill up, but in the winter the place is practically yours. I am so glad the weather was as beautiful as it was. The sun was warm, the skies were clear, and a soft wind would cool you down along the hike. Seriously, you couldn't have asked for a better day.
I made my way back to La Spezia just in time for sunset. When I got to the apartment I looked in the fridge and found an oven pizza that someone had left. I decided to make it. Now, the person who bought it must have drawn the same conclusion that I was about to make. There was no oven or microwave in this place. Hungry and determined to have this frozen pizza I pulled out a skillet and was going to put it on the burner. I opened the wrapping and looked at the pizza. "Yum, ham and spinach" I said to myself. I set it on the burner and let it heat up. When it was almost done I decided to see what that other package was in the freezer. "Yum, fried mozzarella balls" I said. I opened the box to discover a ton of mold! Yuck! I toss it out. Now I'm questioning the ham and spinach pizza that I just put in. I look at the picture on the pizza box. "Shit! It's ham and cheese". Yep, that was not spinach. I tossed it out and them went down the street for a REAL slice of pizza. First, I walked the main stretch of town to the ocean and watched the last remaining glimpse of sunlight. Then, I was on the hunt for food. I found this small place and got a slice. As the lady was making it I said, "Is this the best pizza in Italy?" and she says, "Oh course". I say, "This is my last night Italy and I need to have the best pizza Italy can offer." She said, "If this is your last night in Italy, then why are you in La Spezia?" I laughed. She gave me my pizza all cut up with a fork sticking in the middle. I ate and left. I headed down to this place I saw the night before as I was walking around. It was one of these cool bars with all this junk hanging all over the place. I said, "This is my last night in Italy, give me your best Italian beer." The lady looks at me and says humorously, "We drink wine in Italy". I said, "Perfect!" She poured me a glass of Italian wine from a city I couldn't not pronounce. She said it was from a region that was known for it's earthquakes. It was good! The lady's name was Gabby and she owned the bar. We chatted about this and that and then she says, "If this is your last night in Italy, why are you in La Spezia?" I had just said that it was closest place I could find to the Cinque Terre. She said that in the summers she takes the train every morning to Monarolla to go swimming. Gabby was fun person to chat with in my last night in Italy. I made my way back to the apartment where I got ready for another adventure.

So here are a couple of random thoughts I'm been meaning to share:
1. In Slovenia and Italy it is required by law to give you a receipt for every purchase. I don't make a lot of big purchases; I make a lot of little purchases. For instance, capachino, postcard, stamp, panini, ice tea, etc. Those add up to a lot of receipts at the end of the day. In Slovenia you don't have to take your receipt if you don't want to, but the merchant needs to set it down in front of you. However, in Italy it is required by law for you to take your receipt with you out the door. There is a number of meters you need to take past, but I don't know what it is. I just stuff it in my pocket and clear it out at the end of the day. So, most every night I have been loaded with these receipts.
2. I've heard people say that they hate crossing traffic in Italy and, in particular, Rome. Honestly, it has got to be one of my favorite things. There are these crosswalks in Europe where pedestrians have the right of way. Now, cars won't slow down or stop for you if you are just standing there waiting for them.....they keep going. Once you put your foot on the street like you are about to walk they will stop for you. Now, I'm guessing that most people are worried because the cars are going so fast, but Americans should realize that the traffic culture in Europe is so different. It is pretty common for cars to make an abrupt stop and not think much of it. So, if you know this, crossing heavy traffic is fun! It makes me feel like Moses and God has just parted the traffic for me to pass.
3. Toilets. Yep! I've only ran into one Sissy Squat which is basically a hole in the stall that you just have to aim for. It was at the Vatican. I thought I'd see more while in Italy. Anyway, what I want to say is.....I've heard people talk about how wasteful Americans are with water and how our toilets are among the worst. I have to say, I don't think this is true at all. European toilets waste SOOOOO much more water. Seriously, I cringe when I have to flush. Such a waste! .....err no pun intended.
4. While in La Spezia there has been a certain little someone who have have been missing. That would be my puppy dog, Pup Pup the Wonder Mutt. Now, the reason why is because I have been seeing EXACT types of dogs all over La Spezia! Exact! I think I saw about 5 or 6 just yesterday. So, I may not know what type of dog I have, but I can pretty much bet it's Italian.
5. Pompeii would make a great paintball arena.
6. While walking around at night in Venice I noticed a building that had VERY nice suits in the windows on all four of it's levels. The suits were nicely lite up as to showcase them. Well, all I could think of was that this was the Red Light District of Venice. I imagined that a bunch of rich guys on a bachelor party would be walking down the street looking at the suits. They'd say, "Wow, look at that one!", "She's a beauty", and "How much do you think that one costs?"

La Spezia

Me in the Cinque Terre